Jackets are often the most under used item in a man’s wardrobe although they can also be the most useful when looking to create the right impression or for when a suit is not appropriate. Jackets are an ideal way of dressing less formally, so it is important to get the basics right. We can advise you on suitable cuts, so you can make informed decisions on cloth and colour, helping you visualise what you are going to wear it with.
Knowing how to correctly accessorise a jacket is vitally important as it can transform its appearance and increase its versatility. When faced with time constraints many people fall into the trap of wearing a poorly co-ordinated shirt or a comfortable pair of old jeans when wearing their favourite jacket, this greatly undervalues its worth and can undermine the wearer’s whole appearance.
One of the most important decisions to consider when ordering a new jacket is to decide what you would like to use it for, this helps with the following decisions on style and cloth selection. A well-cut jacket in an appropriate cloth has the ability to fit into almost any social setting, adding style and confidence to the person who wears it.
A majority of our jackets are made in fine quality wools although we regularly make them in cool Irish Linens, soft wool & silk blends or even fine British tweeds. Rare materials like Mohair, Cashmere and Vicuna are now blended with the best wools in the world to produce luxury cloths of superior handle with exceptional performance qualities.
The approach to cutting a jacket pattern is very different to that of cutting a trouser pattern and because they are regarded as separate skills the jacket and trousers are made individually. When the fabrics have been cut the cloth for the jacket is handed to experienced coat maker and the trouser material is given to a skilled trouser maker, there are often nine separate people involved in making a bespoke suit.
We offer two main types of construction Half Canvas and Full Canvas which are briefly explained in our process section, however there are other factors for us to consider such as cloth weight and weave when giving advice as these have a significant bearing on how we approach the construction of a Hand Tailored Jacket.
Most clients have an initial idea of what they are looking for however we are happy to recommend some aspirational designs after understanding their needs. Our tailor’s ability to interpret these requests transforms a simple length of cloth into a Jacket with characteristics as unique as the person who is wearing it. Jackets can be made either fully or half lined depending on the climate they are intended for; this decision also affects the type and weight of cloth that should be selected. Half lined Jackets feel lighter and softer because they have no interlinings and either use minimal padding or have none at all.
Personal linings are an excellent way to express individuality and ensure that the client really makes the Jacket his own, it is for this reason alone that we now offer a range of more than 600 high quality linings in patterns and plain colours.
Buttons can have a significant visual impact on a Jacket and can elevate its appearance to another level entirely. Choose from real horn or mother-of-pearl buttons in a range of colours from our house collection or request something more specific when making personal pieces.