Suits have been worn as day wear for around 400 years, unsurprisingly there have been many changes in the suits appearance and popularity through the generations.Today suits still retain their importance although the way they are made and worn now varies significantly from their early beginnings.
Marc Oliver is known for successfully integrating the subtle differences between classic British tailoring and the more contemporary approach to cutting and styling used by many of Italy’s fine tailoring institutions.The fusion of British and Italian construction techniques has a well deserved reputation that can be traced back to its early beginnings in Italy in 1901 when George V and later Edward V111 became devotees.
Marc Oliver is known for the clean, slim lines of its tailoring whilst maintaining an eye for the individual, the result is a perfect balance between cut, design and performance. Proud of our heritage our clothing still observes the finer traditions of Savile Row artistry, however they are made in Milan only. This fundamental difference separates us from other labels, it is also the reason why we have a perfect understanding of all the elements involved in making luxury hand tailored suits to cater for an increasingly international clientele.
The approach to cutting a jacket pattern is very different to that of cutting a trouser pattern and because they are regarded as separate skills the jacket and trousers are made individually. When the fabrics have been cut the cloth for the jacket is handed to an experienced coat maker and the trouser material is given to a skilled trouser maker, there are often nine separate people involved in making a bespoke suit.
We offer two main types of construction Half Canvas and Full Canvas which are briefly explained in our construction section; however, there are other factors for us to consider such as cloth weight and weave when giving advice as these have a significant bearing on how we approach the construction of a Hand Tailored Jacket.
Most clients have an initial idea of what they are looking for however we are happy to recommend some aspirational designs after understanding their needs. Our tailor’s ability to interpret these requests transforms a simple length of cloth into a suit with characteristics as unique as the person who is wearing it.
Most people recognise the difference in between a double-breasted suit and a single-breasted suit however the choices become more involved when considering cut, lapel style and cloth type. We guide the client through the numerous choices without over complicating the process to ensure he remains in control by making informed and pleasing decisions.
It takes an average of just over 3 metres of plain cloth to make a suit however this amount can increase significantly when selecting cloths containing bold stripes or checks as they require more cloth when pattern matching. Other factors such as a client’s size and shape can often require up to fifty percent more fabric when making a suit, understandably any increase in size also increases the use of all internal fabrics, paddings and interlinings. Understandably these factors influence price to some degree, therefore it is sometimes hard to be exact on price until we see the client and agree on a cloth.