We offer two main types of construction:Half Canvas and Full Canvas which are briefly explained below, however there are other factors for us to consider such as cloth weight and weave when giving advice as these have a significant bearing on how we approach the construction of a hand tailored jacket. If you would like a fuller explanation or are just undecided on which one will meet your requirements, please ask us and we will ensure you make the right choice.
The benefits of using Canvas Interlinings
The use of a canvas interlining has a major influence on the nature of a jacket’s construction and on its enduring quality. The superior fit and unmatched comfort of wearing a jacket made with canvas is the reason why people still visit tailors today. The main purpose of using a canvas interlining is to provide the structure and much needed internal support for the finished jacket, it behaves in much the someway as the human skeleton does for us. Canvas influences how a jacket sits on the body and improves the flow and overall shape of a jacket more commonly known as the drape.
It is typically made from horsehair and is often blended with cotton or other high-performance materials and forms a layer between the cloth you see on the outside, and the lining you see on the inside. Jackets made with canvas interlinings mould to a wearer’s shape accentuating the male form and offering them a greater degree of comfort whilst increasing its durability considerably. It does this by distributing tension away from the garments stress points (such as elbows and shoulders). Put simply; jackets using a canvas interlining are more robust than those without canvas, this helps them cope with general stresses of modern life and the harshness of today’s dry-cleaning methods.
Half Canvas is our standard construction were the canvas extends from the softly padded shoulder to approximately halfway down the jacket body.This allows for a durable well-shaped shoulder structure and is an essential part in the making of a superior fitting jacket. As the name suggests less canvas is used in the structure to produce a lighter feeling jacket with superior drape, which is more robust and comfortable than suits that are made without canvas. In simple terms Half Canvas construction is the perfect choice for those who are new to tailoring however; it remains a very popular choice with seasoned suit wearers because it offers a refined balance between comfort, feel and final cost.
The full canvas option uses more canvas as it extends further down the jacket front adding additional structure and weight. The finished jacket will feel heavier than other versions however the use of extra canvas will also ensure it moulds more precisely to the wearers shape offering a superior fit and hang more commonly known as the drape.
With a full canvas suit, the jacket’s inlay is not glued, it is instead completely sewn in, this allows the inlay to have a certain degree of flexibility when being worn allowing it to adapt to the contours of the wearers body more accurately. Jackets sewn in this way allow the fabric to breath and because no glues are used it increases its longevity considerably.
Full Canvas is the highest quality option for those who wear suits daily however it comes at an increased cost because of the more involved making process and time it takes to complete. Personal preference largely dictates the choice between half or full canvas with some clients favoring the more lightweight feel of Half Canvas where others prefer the heavier and more structured feeling of Full Canvas.
If you are unsure of which type will suit your requirements, please get in touch with us so we can discuss them with you in more detail.